최근 항산화 스트레스 및 자가포식 활성 억제가 피부 노화 근거로 제시되면서 실제 피부세포에서 항산화 및 자가포식 촉진 작용이 있다고 검증된 원료를 함유한 제품들이 진정한 항노화 화장품으로 주목받고 있습니다.
(주)인코스팜은 피부세포의 보습, 항산화스트레스, 자가포식 촉진의 세 가지 기능을 동시에 가지는 세계 최초의 진정한 항노화 원료인 Aquatide를 개발하였습니다.
피부세포를 Aquatide 혹은 비타민 C로 처리한 후 Hydrogen Peroxide로 산화스트레스를 주고 세포의 회복력을 비교한 결과, 단시간 내에는 비타민 C의 회복 속도가 빨랐으나, 시간이 경과하면서 비타민 C의 회복력은 감소하였고, Aquatide를 처리한 세포들은 정상적으로 회복되는 것을 확인하였습니다.
Aquatide는 항산화, 항스트레스 단백질의 발현을 증가시킴으로 항산화 활성을 제공하는 것을 확인하였습니다.
Aquatide처리로 인해 Keratinocyte cell에서 LC3 단백질의 cleavage가 증가됨을 확인함으로, 세포의 자가포식 기능을 가지고 있음을 확인하였습니다.
Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the stratum corneum has a high moistrure retaining efficacy, and plays a major role in the skin barrier function. Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) is one of the major NMF found in human skin. Aquatide, PCA-mimetic peptide, increases moisturization, reduced Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and improves the skin barrier function.
Autophagy is the natural destructive mechanism that allows the orderly degradation and recycling of cellular components. Increased autophagy delays aging and extends longevity.
Sirtuin1 (SIRT1) is a nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+) -dependent deacetylase functioning in the regulation of metabolism, cell survival and organismal lifespan. Active SIRT1 regulates the autophagy during cell stress, including calorie restriction, endoplasmic reticulum (ER) stress and oxidative stress.
Aquatide (INCI name : Hexacarboxymethyldipeptide-12), the first known peptide-derived SIRT1 activator, activates SIRT1 by direct interation. Through this interation Aquatide increases a deacetylation of SIRT1 target protein FoxO1, resulting in the cell protective autophagy.
Normal keratinocyte cells were treated with Aquatide or rapamycin for 24 hours, fixed, and labeled using anti-LC3A Ab/FITC labeled 2nd Ab/DAPI. Aquatide treatment increases LC3 puncta formation (green dots) similar as rapamycin.
Recombinant SIRT1 and its substrates were mixed with Aquatide and others, and measured the deacetylation activity of SIRT1 using fluoremetric analysis Aquatide activated SIRT1 enzymatic activity like resveratrol.
Moisturising activity (skin electro-conductivity) was measured using corneometer at 0, 4, 8, and 12 hours after human subjects treated with the formulation containing 0.5 and 0.05% Aquatide. Base formulation containing 2% hyaluronic acid was used as control. Aquatide is more effective than that of hyaluronic acid at as low as 0.05% concentration.
Six volunteers were applied with 100ppm Aquatide in PEG/EtOH solution or vehicle for 1 week. D-squome was removed using tape stripping, and TEWL was measured using Vapormeter. Aquatide enhances the skin barrier function and water loss prevention.
Sixteen volunteers were applied with 50ppm Aquatide and 0.5% salicylic acid formulation for 4 weeks. Skin conditions were evaluated by dermatologist. Aquatide has a strong anti-inflammatory activity, and reduced average 65% of ACNE symptoms.